Saturday, April 21, 2007

Movedata From Tally7.2 To Tally9

travel story 2006 (22 October-2 November) 21-10

We set 6 and a speedy reinforcement, we saw ... ... ... ... .. 2 in arriving at the port of Algeciras.
The initial project where we had three bikes to be accompanied by a 4x4 assistance is ultimately transformed into a two bikes to ride independently. Eight years was expected that they would not give up now. Every day, new adventures, unexpected events, punctures, breakdowns, storms, floods, cut slopes, meetings, in short, everything except the monotony. To share this trip with family and friends, the story day by day (right category archive) from notes taken during the trip. photos and GPS track .
Travelers: Patrick and Eric, motorbikes: 400 XR stocks 8 and 10 years simply equipped with a 20l tank for a range of about 350 km, a pair of saddle bags, some clothes, tools (rooms air, important) a toothbrush and a sleeping bag rolls.

Happy reading.

Suite .....


Feet Sore When Ice Skating

Pujaudran Algeciras 1500 Km 22-10


clock at 2:00, breakfast, load the bikes and departure at 3:00 for 1500 km and 15-hour drive through Spain not much to tell, 18.00 arrival at Camping La Casita near Algeciras, negotiating for the guard of the car and trailer. In fact we do not negotiate much, 22 € for the night and 6 € per day for car and trailer. Restaurant in the evening at La Linea in the sea, fish, seafood white wine, and sleep.
Suite ....

Spray Paint Bicycle Forks

Algeciras Fes 260km First tracks


Alarm 6:00, poor logistics, nothing planned for breakfast. There are two apples and two bananas in the car, it will. Starting around 8:30 towards the port of Algeciras, arriving at the port around 9:00 am, purchase tickets quickly, leaving the ferry at 9:45, excellent organization.
Arrival in Ceuta, full of bikes, head for the border, exchange before the customs in 10.50 is not very attractive but we did not need much change and Dirham. A customs a facilitator'' crossing''of course seeks to take us by the hand, he quickly realized that we are going to fend for himself. Registration cards at the counter guy said hello and told me
''we know each other! -
- no I do not see
- But if in Tunisia with JSO.''
because I raided with JSO in southern Tunisia in 2002, but I do not have it recognized. By cons shortly after coming second guy I admit, it was driving a KTM, they are in Morocco with an organization and will take a turn in the south.
formalities are quick, installation of GPS on the bike is gone.

Road to Tetouan, Chefchaouen detour

where one seeks to buy something to eat, but it's Ramadan and the shops are closed, we walked around, found a bakery, two pies and two chocolatines (chocolate croissants for northerners) it will.
On leaving the city we fall in the market, we complete the purchases, sardines in oil, "Laughing Cow" bread and two apples, all for little more than 10 or 1 Dh € . We will make a feast.

Picnic on the heights overlooking Chefchaouen. ''Hey Patrick, it is ground, eh! ''. In the village of Souk El Had, left direction Mokrisset where we hope to find a bit of track to get into the hike. The trail begins quickly, doubling a column of Italians, 8 motorcycles and a 4x4, we see them again in a few days in other circumstances. The track is actually a road that has deteriorated in track and road soon revert to the view of the ongoing work. This track is easy and pleasant, perfect for a beginning, motorcycles, even loaded, remain easy to drive. The scenery on the Rif mountains are splendid. All this is ideal. After

Zoumi, we take the road to Fez.
On the heights before we stop to organize Fes for the night, I got an address on the internet forum in Morocco 4x4, call, application rate, 2000 Dirhams (200 €), oops is not in our budgets, the backpacker is the hotel Delilah, call, free room, ok we get. At the entrance of Fes we are approached by guys in mob to find us hotel restaurant guide etc ..., we'll look after himself, a policeman asked us to send dacha, in fact you will notice several resumed during the journey, the police can not not not know about dignity, so they send you somewhere and often it anywhere. After a short time and it gives you is guided by a mob guy for 20 Dh.
200 Dh hotel is not luxury but clean and the shower is hot. The bikes are guarded parking for motorcycles.
For lunch we identify an address in the backpacker, we take the bikes, and once again we turn and return to Fez, we still ended up finding the restaurant ... .... Closed. Back at the hotel, it soon 9:00, I have an address with a phone number, La Menara, call, the owner advises us to take a taxi to a small cinema where we wait. It is in this appointment, we follow in the medina, and after three or four corners we lost, there is more to follow in this dédalle. After a moment he stopped before a large wooden door, we enter a historic mansion, mosaic decorations in plaster everywhere, in fact it is a traditional family. Hassan welcomes us warmly, tells us a lot about Fes and Morocco, the meal prepared by his mother is excellent (pastilla), a brief address to advise.
For the return request Hassan its smaller neighbor to guide us through the medina.

The medina at night when the tourists are gone is to really see and do.

Suite ....

Restaurant La Menara

Varicose Veins Labia After Pregnancy

Fes Midelt 281Km Barbed wire 23-10 on Runway 24-10 Midelt


Alarm 6:00, anyway we are awakened at 4:15 by Muesin for calling the call to prayer from 5:00 am . I do not know if it was because of Ramadan but we are entitled to an initial call at 4:15 and another at 5:00, and in addition they have the sound system thoroughly and it lasts a while, especially as we hear as wide calls from other mosques of Fes, Atmosphere.


For breakfast, again this is not possible, the watcher is already being awakened at 7:00 am and is difficult as the day started badly, then for the breakfast could use some work.


short we load the bikes and we hand it is 7:30, there is no food and little to drink, can be found on the road. But while on the road is closed, it's Ramadan. In the climb
on Imouzer Kandar Ifrane before to 1800m ratatouillent and motorcycles fueled evil, especially that of Patrick, my advice has changed the settings back the fuel to baffle the pot and have a quieter bike. Obviously this is not a success. Before

Ifrane, first tracks, the track T1 described by Gandini, rocky trails with superb location, great.

Except that one time in the middle of the track, a barbed wire is stretched, I see him at the last moment, disaster braking too late, I take the wire, clanking sound but I avoid the drop. Once I see the damage arrested, phew nothing serious, the shoe, the muffler and cylinder fins are removed, but that's all, no punctures, so good.

big fright anyway, especially as a section of barbed wire are Maousse strong.
'' Hey Patrick, it is ground, eh! ''
Ski Ifrane before, a single lift.



Arrive in Ifrane, Morocco Switzerland. Before the royal palace an army of gardeners is working to maintain green spaces. It's like they change their country. We stop at a hotel to buy water, whammy, Dh 15 a bottle,''is a three star''Mr., ah well. Full of bikes, we head towards the center, shops are open for purchase picnic, sardines in tomato sauce (must vary a little), "Laughing Cow", toast (no fresh bread before 1300, Insha Allah). You leave, track left after the station, crossing the Cedar Gouraud, a bit of tar on the road Azrou and Midelt south runway left. Gas






Gouraud Cedar

Patrick's bike becomes undriveable due to carburization, it is more than 2000m. Snack stop in the forest and meeting mechanics to remove the baffle, which chokes the engine.


But she is rebellious and does not want out, using a cable is attached to the baffle a tree, start, first, acceleration and nothing moves, the wheel digging into the soil but all, by taking little shots we will reach the exit. Essay on the runway,''day and night, no more missed''For me the Phillips head screw is too damaged to remove the baffle, you need a drill, I remove the fabric that I stop Sand had put it at the entrance of air filter, it goes a little better but not there yet.


The baffle does not move


Meeting a couple with a Toy registered in 33, very well equipped. We discuss our respective paths.
We're back in the forests of cedar, superb sandy track, later we will see the monkeys but too far for photos. In a small village, seeing that they do not want to give a pen or candy kids want to send us on a wrong track, thank you GPS.



Just before Bakri, 2 or 3 km on the track is covered with large piles of gravel dump here to redo the track, on the first part it goes to the right or left, but Then the song is ledge and you have to cross the woops formed by piles of gravel, no problem on a motorcycle cons 4x4 it should be less funny.



Back on tar, long straight, on arrival Midelt. Judgement in a garage and see if they can put in blow of my screw drill, they did not''loaf''and offer to solder a piece of scrap metal on the screws to remove, no thank you we'll see later. Arrive around 17:00 Midelt, Hotel Atlas, 170Dh night, two meals, garage for motorbikes and hot shower.



Meeting with a guy with an old Finistère BJ45 that is getting a health Midelt, we offer two beers in our room, nice.
talk at the table with a pair of back-packers Quebec. Besides the Dutch not very talkative. Strolling in Midelt, very lively in the evenings because of Ramadan, racing for the next day. Discussion
a Moroccan souk with a little political, but nice.
Dodo big step tomorrow.


Suite .....


Best Dorm To Stay At At Ut

Tinerhir 260km Cirque de Jaffar


Alarm 6:00, but again the Muesin prepared us in the morning, breakfast in room, chocolate croissants and tangerine is frugal. 7:40 departure, turn a little in Midelt before finding the track, Jaffar, that we made 8 years ago.

Check overhanging circus memorabilia and photos, 8 years ago we had turned around here, then we will continue the track called "runway chills" for 4x4treux, motorbike it poses no really a problem, but some places are important crossing slopes. Sensations 4X4. For the rise is the wrong track, go back in a small canyon just tries but nice, the track following is really superb views as well.


circus of Jaffar


track that descends into the Circus (so-called runway chills)

At the height of the village of Tizi'n zou we stop before a big drain on the runway (2m wide and as much depth, perhaps more than a groove there) a local tells us that the track is off and you have to turn around, of course he asked something about intelligence, it hesitates a little but the direction is good compared to GPS and the gap is passable by motorcycle, we decided to continue, there will be two or three crossings in the same style, then a goat path before returning to the track. I think that by passing to the south by the village should not be any problem, against which we spent the 4X4 does not pass.

Our first ford (this will not last)

Tar Agoudim up in the canyon we see the damage caused by the floods of spring, it's really impressive, waters have swept away whole sections of concrete walls. The trail resumes Agoudim. Stop
picnic near a river bordered Tamalout cedar.


Runway continuous passage of a pass at 2650m before Imilchil, we put some gas in the climb. Patrick is pressed, turista?, No no just wanted to drop a little.


Back on tar, it does not pass through the village of Imilchil direction Thodra gorges, crossing again at 2670m, descent to the gorge, a pity that this is felt, and especially to have built a hotel at the entrance of the gorge, it was a place to preserve. We registered two 4x4 double 31, they seem to be really busy.

Arrive Tinerhir around 16:00 after over 6:30 motorcycle. Search the backpacker, our choice is a guest house, called''really''cool-super (email: hote.calme @ mageos.com ) our host Mohamed is really nice and welcoming, the house is really typical edge of the palm and super well kept, the food is very good and breakfast (the first in Morocco) is extra short, a place to recommend. We talk about many things, one of our best stages.


View of the room in the morning

It's the end of Ramadan, people in the street, dressed up to visit family and neighbors.
We'll drink a Coke in town, speaking to a local explained the difficulty of following Ramadan, and is glad that it ends.
We did some shopping for the picnic tomorrow, this time it will be in place mackerel and sardines, it's feast. A young guide us to the shop and a cafe to buy bread, and no other purpose than to help us, he does not try to sell or take us somewhere, it changes a little. Super
Tajine, motorcycles are parked in the garage of the hospital, the father of Mohamed worked there before, is kept overnight.
I come finally to connect the GPS and the Pocket PC and download the trace of the previous steps, it was time the GPS memory is full.
'' Hey Patrick, it is ground, eh!
Tomorrow''big step.

Suite ......



Dog Pain When Yawning

25-10 Zagora Tinerhir 310km Shattering Italian


As usual, Muesin 4:30, 6:00 standing, breakfast extra. We will look at the bikes hosto, it is not the guardian or person they were well guarded!, but Morocco is a very safe country and frankly it does not fear no hand. It takes
motorcycles, and are charged at 8.00 am we hit the road.
25 km of tar before hitting the track for Alnif. This track is in preparation for future paving, what a road called Gandini Inshallah, the old trail that winds around the news is more interesting. Passage of a small hill and on arrival Alnif smoothly, full of bikes and you start to Zagora.
Alnif After we made a dozen miles east, then right heading S, crossing the village, then exit Tabourikt the village I take a wrong track, the GPS indicates a heading SW while I shoot south to the Jebel, we try to trace the track pulling off runway heading but it's full of big stones, it becomes industrialized countries, half round, we found another track that seems to be good but again it brings us to the Jebel opposite is drawn to the Cape again and this time found the right track.

We drive now in a stony plain, I stop at a well built, the water is barely three meters from the surface. Patrick rolls before but it lacks a change of direction, it has no GPS at the same time it loses its flagship plate, I expect at the intersection, when he realizes he turned around, it picks up the plate, it goes.



When you leave this valley one approaches a large extent appears to be a shott, the wind picked up and blows hard enough, and turns into a sandstorm .
We head straight into a cloud that obscures the horizon, a little anxiety rises, along with driving on a completely dry and cracked earth, there is no track, sheets of dry land 20 or 30 cm wide and 3 or 4 thick crack under the wheels, the more one goes, the less we see, visibility is more than ten meters, I stop you decide to ride side by side and not lose sight of. It runs on GPS ground crunches under the wheels. It does not last long but thrills, you end up out of the cloud but the wind always blows and strong enough.

Wind Sandy

Earth crusted
It then comes to a village and sandy zone that is bypassed by transplanting the East before full west to Zagora. Arriving at the inn Marabout lost in the middle of nowhere (actually it's a road frequented), lunch break, Kefta Tagine, fresh water, the foot. The young man who serves us about the various raids that go through there, and we even out a newspaper article on the raid of friendship with the entry list for 90 years, where we find the name of Michael B that we know well. Unbelievable.


Hostel Marabou


It takes the runway, I open the front and I let a little gas, after a while I turn around, nobody, I wait a few but not Patrick, I see half turn off the 4X4 I head toward them,''z'avez not seen a motorcycle? if so arrested later.''
Gas, all of a sudden a motorcycle gang and a 4x4 in front of me, the Italians the first day, the headlight hello, a little farther Patrick arrested, he burst forward and has already removed the wheel . Session
tire changer in the sandstorm, is better as a workshop, the sand gets everywhere, there are plenty inside the tire on the wheel axle sand has stuck to the grease, it will arrange the bearings treatment, short is not the ideal place.

The tire is filled with thorns, Patrick always providing there is at last taken a little time to prepare his bike and due to stock shortages on the Michelin Desert has mounted T63 ,'' but if you see it will ''he said. Reassembly, it starts but will have to accelerate the pace if we want to arrive before nightfall.
Gaz.


is rolled back into the sandstorm when, suddenly, 4 bikes arrested in front of us, the Italians, it is decidedly done to meet. We stop, they ask us if we have a GPS in my turn I ask them if they have one, NO, a compass, NO, card, NO. In short, they are lost with nothing sighted types, their group was cut in half and because of the sandstorm they lost to, well done.

They ask us if we can follow, with "una birra" it takes them to Zagora

Italians

Andiamo.
There is a BMW 1200 GS divested of its plastics, the guy runs really well (he is 5 dakar arrivals including three to his name), a nice Greek twin Africa who speak a little French and rolls a lot, an old Honda 500 XLR and finally a guy with a BMW 1150 GS not really rolling fast, which seems frightened and distressed, the tone will rise between him and the guy in 1200.
We have smaller bikes with our 400, but they will have trouble keeping up and it will stop every 2 or 3 km for the wait, it did not happen. In
crossing Jrane Umm I'm a navigational error on the outskirts of the village and takes the wrong track, rather than returning to the village I chose to cut off piste. A small field of stones, followed by a sandy part, crossing not very complicated but the guy does not follow the 1150, the Dakar turned around, he is using the bike to pass. We're back and we find the right track.

We must stop every 5 minutes to wait.
We stop for a drink, the guy comes to the 1150 I handed him my bottle, he threw the cap to the ground after he throws the bottle that Patrick gave her''oh boy it is not that, c is not a dump here.'' He starts to get drunk, that one, in fact it looks completely distraught, I think he is afraid. The Dakar
worries about gasoline, time ahead, so good.
You leave, Patrick was again burst forward but it deflates slowly, we decided to continue.
I decided to take the track south of Jebel Zagora Adafane before, but looking back I always did not pay attention to the GPS and we took the trail north stronger, it's not that serious goes there too. Again we must wait for the Italians. I pause, Patrick said he continued slowly because of its wheel. I'm on the edge of the runway and two girls about 4 or 5 years to come, I wonder where they come off when I see a camp. She looked at me with nothing say, I have in my bag some of the picnic lunch we did not hit, I decided to give them what I have, bread, a bottle of water and grains.

Given the time we could spend the night on the runway. The Italians finally arrived, the anguished at the 1150 passes in front of me without even a look, as his colleague with the 500 Honda.
Patrick returns at the same time as the Greek and two other Italians in the group, it starts to make the world.

Their band was reformed in part thanks to mobile phone, so we can continue, Arrivederci, i vediamos per la birra.

Before leaving it inflates the wheel of Patrick with a small gas bottle special bike. Now night has fallen, you drive coast to coast (Quench), lighting of motorcycles is not great, when I walk into a lighthouse off the GPS and beacon code or anyway it does there is not much difference parcontre must reset the GPS in the dark, "ON" button, page button twice too fast or it will not take it, all in stock, it's sport. An eye on the GPS, the other on the track, or what I guess, through mapping Mapsource obtained on the Internet by Bernard F, I can follow our progress on the track thanks to the GPS map display, it is also bordered by small cairns. We'll get by. Without this tool follow a trail at night is very difficult if not impossible. It has traveled many miles but it has still seemed long.

We finally arrived in Zagora, escorted by motorcycles young touts for the mechanics, hotels, restaurants etc. ...
Zagora has really changed in 8 years. It stops at the governor's palace under a lamppost, ostentatious.

We consult the guide book, our choice is the house guest Dar Raha to Amezrou . Good pick.
It is accompanied by a garage mechanic Said Motoring (service competition please) that we do not give up, you take the card.
We return the bikes in the lobby of the house, we were the only guests.
Fresh beer, shower and Kefta drizzled with red wine from Meknes, the house is superb, the welcome too, I sleep on the terrace
'' Hey Patrick, it is ground, eh! ''.

suite ....

Lobby house Dar Raha, incidentally garage for bikes




Gay In A Public Toilet

26-10 Zagora Zagora 5Km Clutch 27-10 Zagora Foum broken

I had planned a day off to Zagora, but as it feels fit we decided to do a bit of the next step, ie dd'aller Mhamid up, a hundred miles and make a tour of the Jewish side of the dunes to see what gives the bikes loaded before erg Chegaga cross.


Zagora dawn

The palm
Before that meeting tire changer in the lobby, Patrick dismantles its wheel, I stick patches, teamwork, the tire is always filled with thorns' ' but if you see it will take'' T63, Patrick tries to remove the maximum.


Before we move from the garage in a shot Said to drill to remove the baffle on my bike, it'll be fact. Passage to the bank to change, full of bikes and there by opening my wallet, I realize that I lost my passport, a great moment of loneliness, I had to lose it to the bank, I course, closed the turnkey see myself out the window and give me the passport, phew. It starts well.


En route, we get the track, we did not 2 km, Patrick beckons me, "I have a problem," ouch, more clutch. It is as if the cable was broken but it is not broke. Is internal. Re
Ouch. Remove the cover. Everything seems normal, but actually not, shoulder the clutch bearing is broken, it is wedged between the fork and the housing is a lesser evil, it is better here at the bottom of the box.

Finding damage
It is going so poorly, it can run without clutch but there is more than 1500km and dunes Chegaga.
Back to square one, he was told it would be a day of rest.
Patrick proposes to call his insurance, I asked him to return to the garage they will be a solution, I always read everywhere in Africa were the kings of resourcefulness.
back to the garage, is dismantled, we explains. Said seeks in its stock parts, then it will stop with the broken.
Patrick called the assistance of his insurance, and surprise was told he had no assistance. All is well. (Fortunately this is not a broken guitar).
Said does not return, they offer us tea, we ask for a new mechanic, he called on the laptop and Said tells us they will resolder the room and turn a identically.
It looks a little surprised, God willing. Y has to wait.
gonna take a little time, picnic site, visit the workshops of the mechanics surroundings, and gradually returns morale.


Exhibit rewelded

Said returns, we present the workpiece, it does not look bad. Then the turned part, we try to mount it, it will not. Back in the turner.
Meanwhile I go back to the guest house, crosses the boss Antoine, who saw me laugh, there's room? It comes in second evening, all things considered it was not bad. Back in the garage, new test, it still does not, this is not the kings of the caliper, this time I take it Said motorcycle and we will both in the turner.


The turner
This time it's good, it works, at least at rest, the steel is not the same quality but we will not do difficult. Reassembly of the housing and test course. Starting, walkout, the first is gone, no more second, clutch blocked. Ouch Redémontage, the stopper is stuck, unable to leave, but especially as she toured with the clutch, it has been machined''''by the band, there filings has full oil. In fact there was no one on the flat part that fits inside the clutch, to lubricate surely that was not done, the stop has turned, and started across s is stuck.
battle is half an hour with two screwdrivers and a hammer to remove it, it finally succeeds. It was the original piece welded, we finished the tour to play the file and sandpaper, we keep it in place, just in case. I propose to Patrick emptying because of the filings, "moo, not the filter and strainer will stop it, it's honda solid. "


It is late coming home Dar Raha beers tagine red wine, what the routine. Call
insurance, "sorry it was a mistake, here is the file number ...", it makes us a beautiful leg.

Dodo on the terrace.


The following .....